2) St Lucia Above The Bay: Cas-en-Bas. 

Reasons To Be Cheerful Part 2

Wednesday. 
Being Wednesday, the housekeeper is due to arrive. I have a limited window to undertake my ablutions and vacate the premisses, so she can have a clear run of the house. Not that I’m scared of her!
Its extraordinary how grown men lose all their bravado and confidence when confronted with the: Dental-hygienist, “The Rubber glove!” or the Housekeeper! I left as the Housekeeper was pulling into the drive. Perfect timing. 

Cas-en-Bas. 
I decided on a leisurely stroll off the beaten track. It felt private, almost lonely, walking along the Atlantic side of the north of the island, to a stunning place called Cas-en-Bas. Here, the wind and the incomparable sunlight from the soaring skies fight each other for dominance. The breeze can be very strong here, and the palm trees genuflect gently in deference and respect, to the power of the airstream. 

This beach has an enigmatic aura. It is a totally spellbinding, unspoilt bay, of beautiful shimmering blue light, bouncing off the cerulean sea and the soft white sand. Unadulterated by human detritus, the vista exudes both power and an elemental tranquil beauty, totally in step with nature. 

One Against Nature At Cas-en-Bas

Cas-en-Bas is protected by forbidding rocks, carved out over millions of years by the sea. The spiritual resonance of the beach syncs with one’s heartbeat. The edge of the sand is surrounded by lush green forest, providing natural shade. 

Cas-en-Bas From Up High.

Sadly the beach is covered in seaweed at the moment. (Tragically a common sight North to South along the entire stretch of the Eastern Atlantic seaboard.)  

The area is wild and windswept, captivatingly interesting and entrancingly beautiful. It’s the go-to picnicking spot for locals. Telling you all you need to know. 
Despite the unforgiving sun, the area is kept cool by an almost constant refreshing breeze. I guess it the nearest us mortals can feel to a walking in a microwave oven – cool on the outside warm in the middle. 

Horse With No Name.
For my travelling equestrian friends Horse Riding is available here. There are stables on the beach, and the St Lucia Riding club is not far away, based in Beausejour, very close to the Darren Sammy Cricket Stadium. (More about the great man later in future Blogs!)
The sight of horses & riders walking into the sea is magical, and my daughter assures me it’s an amazing must do experience. 

Spellbound, I watch two local horse grooms race each other along the shore line. The sea water splashes behind them, and the ground reverberating under my feet as they charged by, bouncing on the back of galloping horses, with no stirrups, and hessian rope for reins. The sight was absolutely, incredible, powerful and picturesque! Their cries echoing above the crashing of the waves, “Faster! Faster!” as they called for their mounts to speed.  
For the rest of us mere mortals, there are guided tours with saddles, proper equipment, and attendants to hold on to! 

Horses In The Water.

The St Lucia Kitesurfing School.
The St Lucia Kitesurfing School is located in Cas-en-Bas. Where there is, great breezes, warm waters, and fabulous tuition and guidance provided by a great team.

The Kitesurfing school, set up and run by the wonderful Beth, a truly fabulous person and a great servant to St Lucia. A supremely graceful and skilful kitesurfer herself, she really makes the place a kitesurfers dream, for beginners or experienced surfers alike. 

The most notable thing I took away with me from the Kitesurfers I spoke to, is their deep passion for the sport/recreation. And their absolute reverence and love for Cas-en-Bas, and the combined fragility and power of the sea.

Marjorie’s Bar.
While walking, I was totally engrossed by the amazing kitesurfers, gliding across the waves, conjuring up summersaults, back-flips, and flying through the air, in graceful beauty. I meet one of the regulars off the beach, outside Marjorie’s Bar/Restaurant. He called himself Delton.

Marjorie’s is located on the beach – a cool place for a little respite, and the reward of a local rum punch. Or a cold “Piton?”
Marjorie’s is the bar that Amy Winehouse frequented while she was in St Lucia, and the locals have many charming tales to tell off that Angel. 

Al Fresco At Marjorie’s Bar.

Marjorie is no longer hands-on in the restaurant, although she visits most days. That said when Marjorie herself was at the helm, it was a gem of a place. Proper “shabby chic!” Good food, great atmosphere, in a totally relaxing haven. I once attended an amazing wedding there. It was so relaxed and just so beautiful.

There are plans to relocate Marjorie’s restaurant to a new site further down the beach, as part of the Cabot Golf Course Residential Development works on Cas-en-Bas. It’s fair to say, this has been, (and continues to be) a controversial and touchy subject for the whole island on many levels. I’ll shall follow up the story later. 
There’s a second hotel development called Cap Cove located just behind the beach on Cas-En-Bas. More about that in future Blogs too.

Marjorie’s From The Sea.

Back to Delton: A short, grey, unshaven, oldish looking man, with patchwork balding dreadlocks. He was sporting a faded red string vest, that had seen better days, bright pink & green Bermuda shorts, with unbuckled plastic sandals. He beckoned me over. With the call “English Bway (Boy) !” Being a man of senior years my vanity got the better of me, and I looked over in his direction.

I gestured that I was happy to walk alone. He took no notice! 
My new found companion and I walked together, me tripping and dodging the sea-weed, as the refreshing tide rushed over my ankles. In contrast, Delton moved as if he was floating on a cushion of air above the sand. Facing me, almost as if he was walking backwards.

Aeroplane Or NASA Rocket-Booster Engine. And Pop-Up Craft Shop.

Even in the brisk salty sea air. Delton had a particular redolence of weed, blue soap, and last night’s cheap perfume. I imagined he thought he was still a bit of a ladies’ man, even in those shorts!
We entered into a good-natured dialectic, regarding the debris of an aeroplane or a NASA rocket-booster engine, (fact or folk law, take your pick) which litters the beach. Delton claimed he swam out to sea and pulled the carcass ashore. When I asked him when this was, he couldn’t remember! Delton was not a persuasive man!

Delton’s Triumph. (Allegedly the Bar Venue Before Marjorie’s.)

Delton talked candidly and openly, about his life’s greatest achievements. Meeting Peter Stringfellow, – the bacchanalian times they shared together. brough a wry smile to his face, and looks of disbelief to mine; and shattering the stumps of Sir Vivian Richards, cleaned bowled for a first ball duck, right there on the beach. He had the bare face cheek and audacity to point towards a set of imaginary stumps on the beach, to add weight to this tale.
I suspected a little embellishment, but all he wanted for sharing his humorous memories was the price of a rum. A real bargain I thought, for the company of a man with the power to pull a flight engine ashore. Delton thanked me and blessed me, but I’ll never believe he bowled out “The Master Blaster” Sir Viv!
Room With A View Onto Cas En Bas

Supermarket Shopping: Massy.
With my lungs full of clean fresh-air, my mind with fresh optimism, and my soul enriched with the capability of human endeavour, and Delton’s blessings. I contemplated a trip to the local supermarket. Man can’t live on Gin and chocolate alone!  

So, towards Massy supermarkets. The company who dominates food shopping in St Lucia. Massy is a peculiar mix of local fresh food, and American and European packaged groceries. 
Top Tip: Some of the packaged food, the sell by dates are close, due to the produce having to be imported. So be cautious when making grocery selections.

Rodney Bay Main Street.

The food selection in Massy is weirdly eclectic, and constant, at the same time. My local Massy seems to be strangled by its lack of ambition, choking on a selection of unwanted, unsellable irredeemable packaged goods. (The Massy branch at Cul de Sac, & Massy Gourmet Rodney Bay being notable exceptions.)  

The only shopping lane of colour and articulacy is the Booze-lane, naturally! Like the Forth Bridge there always seems to be two wary looking staff, constantly restocking the shelves. Labour in vain! 
There are huge spaces on the shelves, taken up by things one buys once a year! Christmas specials left on the shelves in February! Really?

It can’t be easy judging the pallet of St Lucians, while balancing the cost to their pockets, but St Lucian’s deserve a better selection of groceries. I feel St Lucian’s are willing and able to pay for better quality food. 

The Legend Coconut Dundee
(NOTE: The way locals drink coconut water)

On the way home I stopped for coconut water from one of the local roadside sellers. His name is “Coconut” Dundee, (He’s my go-to coconut water man, and he wears the leather hat too.) Three large bottles of fresh coconut water at $12EC apiece – job done. 
I watched mesmerised as “Coconut Dundee” with three swift swings of his razor-sharp cutlass, takes the heads off the “Jelly” Coconuts, then using the nib of the blade to pierce the fruit. He then poured the coconut water into a plastic bottle, without spilling a drop. 
Top Tip: NOTE TO NEWBIES: Be careful! Coconut water stains any material. A stain almost impossible to get out. Don’t copy the locals till well practiced. Use a straw.

I watched “Coconut Dundee” fill up the bottles, with the virgin coconut water from the husk. Definitely Not “Coconut Dundee” but some of the other coconut water sellers, may be unscrupulously selling to unknowing patrons, bottles of coconut water, topped up with tap-water. If you don’t know the vendor. Ensure they fill the bottle up in your presence.  
Top Tip: Ask about. Get to know your coconut water man! 
Top Tip: I avoid buying coconut water in supermarkets. Coconut water is a delicious, living, natural extract, of superfood proportions. It is so good for you, in so many ways, but it’s ‘best by’ date window is very small.  

Late In The Evening! On The Way Home Via Gros Islet.

Evening sunset
The evening dark comes quickly to St Lucia. It only being 14º north of the equator. Night follows day in a matter of minutes. 
The cruise ships and some private yachts head north, leaving Castries and Rodney Bay towards the Greater Antilles of the Caribbean. They take advantage of the stunning free sunset show. A vibrant sunburst, of riotous colour, brings the picture-perfect day, to a flawless end.
I relax on the balcony, with a large tumbler of fine local Rum and coconut water. The Guitar is on my lap. I’m working on my rendition of the Marvin Gaye Classic “Whats Going On?” Comforting myself that I can play the rhythm, but I’ll never be able to sing that majestic vocal like Marvin.

Thank you all for your generous comments for Reasons To Be Cheerful Part 1.
Thank you Lorraine Mulcahy for your help.

The end of Reasons To Be Cheerful Part 2.